ITALIAN BACKGROUND

After the recent successful collaborations born from the mind of Kim Jones, creative director of the Dior Homme department, Maria Grazia Chiuri also shared a news that will make us Italians happy, the first female director of the French maison has in fact announced the choice to set the parade of the Cruise 2021 collection in Italy, even anticipating it a few days compared to the scheduled date. To be precise, the défilé will be held on May 9 in Lecce, the original place of the designer. It is precisely from Puglia that the designer began to enter the world of fashion, making her first work experiences in the family tailoring located in Tricase.

SANREMO 70

This weekend, at the Santa Tecla Fort in Sanremo, the “Sanremo 70” exhibition will end, which through 300 memorabilia of the Rai Teche Archive, including photographs, documents and clothes, tells 69 years of the history of Italian costume. A special room is dedicated, in fact, to the clothes chosen by the singers to present their songs, among which there is also the red dress created by the Daphné tailoring of Sanremo for Dalida, made in 1967. The singer, however, does not he never wore on the stage of the Ariston, due to the suicide of his partner Luigi Tenco. On display are the clothes of the first winners, Carla Boni and Flo ’Sandon’s, designed by Fernanda Gattinoni and dating back to 1953, that of Iva Zanicchi signed Curiel, up to the Armani Privé dress worn in 2018 by Michelle Hunziker.

LIBRARY OUTSIDE

The BAM, Library of the trees becomes (even) more instagrammable thanks to an initiative by Samsung, Gufram, IED Milano and M&C Saatchi. On the BAM walk, the botanical garden born in the heart of Porta Nuova, two new benches appeared (Cloud Bench and Nature Bench), designed on Galaxy Note with the innovative intelligent S Pen and made by Gufram, perfect for shots with the skyline of Gae Aulenti as a backdrop. The first two benches were exposed last week, from this week they have been replaced by two other benches (Love Bench and Family Bench) and this until February 14, for romantic Valentine’s Day shots. These installations represent the first phase of the “Re-imagined with Samsung Galaxy Note” project, which will develop in the near future in various ways.

HAUT–À-PORTER

Today more than ever, outwear is experiencing a glorious moment thanks to a wide range of versatile products that can nourish the growing need for social distinction. TheOneMilano, the international haut-à-porter show, has been celebrating it in Milan since this February 2020, presenting all the subcategories of the “external” winter clothing of international companies and emerging brands, which will feature garments such as trench coats, upholstery, hoods, coats in wool, cashmere, silk, fur and cotton: natural fabrics that the fashion industry is preferring to educate for green purchases that are increasingly aware and respectful of the planet.
Not only outwear at TheOneMilano, but also proposals suitable for dress code parties, personalized or tailored knitwear and indispensable accessories in silk or leather to complete any outfit. The urban and cosmopolitan collections perfectly embody the spirit of the event that is inspired by the great international metropolises, telling their shapes and colors in a photographic storytelling set in the city of Milan that the salon bears in its own name.

NEW YEAR MOUSE

Gucci is a fashion house that has always been open to cultural contaminations that come from all over the planet. This is once again demonstrated by the Disney X Gucci collection which, in conjunction with the Chinese New Year, succeeded in the small miracle of bringing East and West closer together in an almost perfect balance. The Chinese New Year 2020 falls on January 25th, then in a few days, and will mark the beginning of the year of the Mouse. Since Chinese New Year is one of the most heartfelt holidays in the western world, Gucci has thought of creating a capsule collection that could somehow celebrate the moment. To do this, he decided to include continuous and precise references to the most famous Disney character in the prints and design of his new collection, the one from which the long and very successful history of Walt Disney and his company began. Images of the iconic mouse everywhere, from bags to scarves, ready to show off all year round.

CUDDLES AND SNOW

Snow, skis, but also whirlpools and Turkish baths. In Madonna di Campiglio sport and wellness are always guaranteed. With 124 hotels and spas, it hosts some of the most beautiful Italian ski slopes, which stretch along 150 km of slopes, 57 ski lifts, 50 thousand square meters of snow park, 40 km for Nordic skiing. There are several structures that offer wellness packages and treatments in the pearl of the Brenta Dolomites. They have swimming pools, whirlpools, a Finnish sauna and a Turkish bath. Framed by a landscape of singular beauty, among the Brenta Dolomites Unesco Heritage we find the Skiarea Campiglio Dolomiti di Brenta which is one of the main reference points for snow sports, including Aplinism, cross-country skiing, snowboarding, ice skating, dog sledding, in short, a cuddle that should absolutely be given away, both for the body and for the mind.

RIMOWA-DIOR

It took seven months of long wait to be able to see the collaboration between Dior and RIMOWA live, but it was worth it.Presented for the first time during the spring / summer 2020 collection show, the collaborative collection conceived by the meeting between the French fashion house and the German brand it has generated one of the most evident symbols of modern luxury.The unparalleled quality in the construction of aluminum luggage has in fact crossed with the refinement of the style of Kim Jones, who wanted to experiment with innovative silhouettes from add to the inevitable classics. Thus was born a selection of trolleys, shoulder bags and suitcases characterized by a linear and clean design, where a shaded version of the Oblique monogram alternates with monochromatic hues that let the top-level finishes speak for themselves.

GOLDEN HANDS

Homo Faber, the crafts of art return to Venice. After the success of the first edition in 2018, the Michelangelo Foundation brings the excellence of Italian, European and even Japanese know-how back to the Cini Foundation, to rediscover the beauty of the work of the hands. Also with itineraries in the city 17 dedicated exhibition spaces dedicated to an aspect of excellent craftsmanship, from the goldsmithery to the mosaic, from the master paper makers to the luthiers, from the craftsmen that it will be possible to admire at their work table. Special guest of the second edition will be Japan, with a series of exhibitions dedicated to its “Living National Treasures”, an appellation that in the Land of the Rising Sun attributes to its best master craftsmen: they bring them to Homo Faber 2020 objects present with ancient techniques , from lacquer to dyeing fabrics. Fashion will also have a special space: the most modern side of craftsmanship will be revealed in a “capsule collection” of sustainable clothes for men and women designed in Italy and made in one hand in the United Kingdom, created by a group of Italian students from design in collaboration with the best British artisan talents.

NEW CLASSICISM?

The new classicism, which is the clearest message from Milan’s fashion week, sounded like a hymn to the boy instead of a call to order. The collections of a nostalgic return to school are increasingly emerging in his collections. .The invitation, written in a round and uncertain handwriting, speaks of “fifth birthday raves”; the collection notes are entrusted to the folded protocol sheet, like the old topics in the classroom. On the catwalk, new accessories of desire, among Liberty’s little flower bags and Richard Hell’s T-shirts, there are tin bags like biscuit boxes, and ox-eye sandals put on with big socks, because after all it’s winter collection. And then there are the clothes: skimpy, tight, sexless and re-proportioned, with a vague taste of the seventies – flared trousers, perhaps in silver leather, blazer with saddle shoulders – and that air of adult classics, adapted to the wardrobe puerile to be worn again by fashionable adults. A very twisted carpatura, of those in which Alessandro Michele excels. The intent, not at all hidden, is to launch a frontal, almost punk, attack on the codes of normative masculinity. A certain “guccificazione”, of cast and look, is evident from Marco De Vincenzo in Magliano, who in fashion is signed with only the surname, he does not have thirty years but is nostalgic for that magma that were the seventies / eighties, everywhere in Europe. He parades in a shady gambling den in Porta Genova, between billiards and low lights, composing a mosaic of gangsters who is sartorially stimulating, but at times costumistic.

AFTER PITTI

Pitti Uomo is the event in which the outlines of men’s fashion are outlined year after year. The beginnings of streetstyle as an obsession were seen right in the streets of Florence, just as today the taste of a classic and elegant style is rediscovered in the edition number 97 of Pitti Uomo, the first of 2020. Trying to guess trends starting from brand proposals for the autumn winter 2020 2021 we seem to see a novelty: a reversal of course, a return to the origin, an implosion of design towards its pulsating core made of double-breasted suits and khaki-colored knitwear. The impression one gets is that of a renewal: tradition exudes from the slits of the Renaissance buildings to convey hi-tech fabrics and new manufacturing techniques into an alchemical pewter. The common denominator of this stylistic equation is absolute attention to the material: quality is not preferred, it is the only possible alternative. And they have always known it at Pitti Uomo. Here are the main trends and the most interesting things seen at Pitti Uomo 2020 just ended. An absolute novelty for menswear is the almost absolute abandonment of dark and cardinal shades such as black and blue, which give way to the more wearable and casual softness of autumn colors. Gray, khaki, sand, military green and ocher intertwine in the Cruciani and Brooksfield knitwear, becoming red and tangerine mottled dove-gray in the Mezulic ready-to-wear.